Using the Buccaneer Pirate3D printer and printing at 340 microns on masking tape, it was found that print quality is of acceptable condition until 35 degrees. At 25 degrees, each new layer of PLA is laid too far out into empty air, resulting in a drooping effect.
Existing setup is first modelled in Solidworks and the necessary parts for the extension are then added on by creating the additional 3D models. In this way, everything is easily visualized and created to scale, no need to keep checking up on the measurements. The size of the two support pieces are bigger than the area of the print bed, therefore it is broken down and printed in two parts, to be joined by super glue. See the video for the entire process of creation, from 3D modelling to printing.
I have finally received my Buccaneer Pirate 3D printer and just started playing around with it. Got off a shaky start of broken filaments and poor adhesion of the layers, but all is resolved through the easy to understand re-calibration instructions and various youtube videos from the homepage.
One other problem remains though, and that is the difficulty of removing the final product from the print bed! Sounds like a good problem to have as it usually means the model came out well, but after a few times of brute-force prying the printed model and scraping the remaining debris off the sticky print bed, it is soon apparent that this is not the way to go for long as the adhesive print bed is taking too much damage.
Surfed around the net a bit, realised that for PLA filaments, two cheap solutions exists, and this instructable is to share with you the stuffs i learnt and discovered along the way and also the experience of using the two methods: